How To Test The Amp Draw On Car Alternator A 2008 Mazda 3

02-xx-2014,12:52 PM

hey squad mazda3,

i'm experiencing a parasitic draw on my auto, causing it to not starting time up every time i want to drive the car. I've left the car for almost 3 days and that is enough to have my cars battery drained.

Before i troubleshoot it and start doing the whole diagnosis, is there anyone that has had this problem and able to identify the effect? this would help narrow downward where i need to look instead of just having to pull each fuse and observe which one causes the describe.

let me know if anyone has had this issue and what the direct result was. i've heard that information technology could exist a result of a burnt boozer light, but i found a switch that turns it off, which i had done. but nevertheless to no avail.

thank you team mazda3.

02-xx-2014,02:57 PM

What mods practice y'all have?

Had the same issue, turned out it was my Hella Supertones.

02-20-2014,03:35 PM

oh nice,

the merely mod that im enlightened of is the HID lights (bought this automobile used). One of them is burnt out, or could be the ballast is bad; however, i still had the same issue even before then.

everything else is stock. it just really occurs in winter likewise for some odd reason. I've already tried replacing my battery with a higher CCA then required and it worked for a few weeks, but it just occurred once again.

02-20-2014,04:51 PM

Quote Originally Posted by Mr Wilson View Post

What mods do yous have?

Had the aforementioned event, turned out it was my Hella Supertones.

wasn't your LED bulbs in ceiling light?

02-20-2014,04:57 PM

No, tested information technology at Bluestreak'south place with Breakfasteatre who got me fixed up with his mad skills. Drain was huge from the Supertones' relay.

02-twenty-2014,05:17 PM

Quote Originally Posted by Mr Wilson View Post

No, tested it at Bluestreak'southward place with Breakfasteatre who got me fixed up with his mad skills. Drain was huge from the Supertones' relay.

hmm...I wonder if that is causing my battery drain issue every bit well.
How did y'all resolve ?

02-20-2014,05:19 PM

Rewired to piece of work only when ignition is on. Have to re-wire improve at some betoken. Information technology was a much appreciated temp fix.

02-20-2014,05:xx PM

Quote Originally Posted by loki View Post

wasn't your LED bulbs in ceiling lite?

Are you talking about LED interior bulbs?

02-20-2014,05:23 PM

Alright I just installed mine and was wondering if I should proceed an centre on it. Just I was going to get hellas hopefully it's an easy gear up

02-21-2014,03:24 PM

To the OP, you sure the Alternator is up to snuff?

Another thing you can practise to ostend electric current draw is to maybe intercept betwixt the positive terminal and the lead that connects to information technology and when the car is fully turned off and there shouldn't be any draw, meet how much power is still existence passed through.
One time you lot get that setup, pull i fuse at a time and see if the meter drops in current draw, once you find the right fuse, you now know which path to proceed with.

There is a proper way to do this, and in that location was a term for it, but I'm pulling a blank right now. Maybe one of the local Sound Shop sponsors for TM3 tin chime in and elaborate on this process?

02-21-2014,04:29 PM

Quote Originally Posted by Mty Mous View Post

To the OP, you sure the Alternator is upwards to snuff?

Some other affair you can do to ostend current draw is to maybe intercept between the positive terminal and the pb that connects to information technology and when the car is fully turned off and there shouldn't be any draw, see how much power is even so beingness passed through.
In one case y'all get that setup, pull 1 fuse at a fourth dimension and run into if the meter drops in current draw, one time you observe the right fuse, you now know which path to go along with.

There is a proper way to practise this, and there was a term for information technology, but I'chiliad pulling a bare right now. Perhaps 1 of the local Audio Shop sponsors for TM3 can chinkle in and elaborate on this procedure?

Thank you!
Im going to accept to do this too.. I have the aforementioned problem

02-21-2014,06:28 PM

thanks bro, appreciate the help.

the alternator is good, it does indeed charge the battery.

I am currently trying to practise this with the help of the ericthecarguy video the guy psoted. i constitute that awhile agone and thats why i'm attemping to practise, im just posting to meet which fuse is usually the culprit. just i've ran into an upshot of not being able to find a current draw, its rating at 0 on all levels of measuremenet (amps, miliamps) - which apparently isn't correct as there should be a current describe for items such equally clocks, internal light security, etc. so i'k questioning my multimeter. i volition have to get a proper one equally i go a cheap 20 dollar one.
thanks for the response

02-22-2014,03:38 PM

alright and then i've plant that i have pretty large amp draw when im idle .. 0.147 amps which converts to 147 milliamps. the standard i hear should exist no more than than 50 mA and then i am drawing some high current when idle.

i can find the fuse box nether the hood unproblematic plenty, but tin can't find all the other fuse boxes. i see a diagram underneath the passenger side glove box and pulled that plastic covering off, but didn't find any fuses to pull. i've already tested the fuses nether the hood, anyone have any diagrams or suggestions on where to look for this other set of fuses?
cheers

02-22-2014,08:28 PM

alright so i pulled each one of my fuses from both the hood fuse box and the passenger side fuse box and NOTHING.

the amps notwithstanding read 140-170 mA and i've pulled every fuse out to run across whether it drops. nothing drops. i did however, have the passenger door open up while i was pulling out the fuses which looks to me draws amps...but i would think that if i were to pull the fuse regardless, the amps would however go downward but not completely to 0. I've pulled out one of my burnt out trunk lights also as i've heard that could be the cause.

whatever ideas equally to where else i should look for this parasitic depict?

02-23-2014,04:52 PM

replaced my torso low-cal and cigarette low-cal equally i've read on another mazda3 forum that they were the culprit. However drawing that damn 140 mA on my car. somethings gotta give...

02-23-2014,08:24 PM

Quote Originally Posted past th3rods View Post

alright and then i've found that i take pretty large amp depict when im idle .. 0.147 amps which converts to 147 milliamps. the standard i hear should be no more than 50 mA so i am cartoon some high current when idle.

i can find the fuse box nether the hood simple enough, only can't find all the other fuse boxes. i see a diagram underneath the passenger side glove box and pulled that plastic roofing off, but didn't find any fuses to pull. i've already tested the fuses nether the hood, anyone accept any diagrams or suggestions on where to await for this other set of fuses?
thanks

Ok you've confused me. Granted I just worked xiii hours and I'm tired, plus I just skimmed the topic, but why the hell are you lot checking the current draw when idle (i.e. engine on)??

You want to check the current draw when the car is OFF, and you desire to measure it for a good 30s to rule out whatever current spike in the organization (i.e. elec systems draw more during initial power on).

Furthermore, everything is pointing to your battery.
0.15 amps is significant, but it should not impale your battery in three days.
I accept gone ahead and assumed your battery is good for 50Amp*hours.
50 Amp*hours / 0.15 amps = 333 hours / 24hrs per day = 14 days (AKA 2 weeks).

If your alternator is indeed charging the bombardment (tin can be confirmed past verifying your voltage with the car on is ~14V) and so your battery is probably the issue.
Before running off to purchase a new bombardment, mayhap someone can double check my reasoning.

My multimeter toll $10 at cantire and has been working well for x years. You don't demand an expensive one, they all exercise the same shit. If its cleaved, that is a dissimilar story but my bet is y'all're using information technology wrong.

02-24-2014,12:39 PM

My bad, incorrect word use - the motorcar was indeed off.

Yeah i've waited for more than than 30s. The initial draw did spike with 400 mA but then settled downward to 140 mA and didn't go anywhere afterward.

I'll check the bombardment out - I did indeed accept the bombardment good for about 2 weeks after I had purchased it and did non have the battery drained during that time. Later on the two weeks, with minimal driving in between, the battery died again. This is my third battery bandy as a consequence of this parasitic draw and so there is indeed something drawing it.

regardless of your math, 140mA is still too high and enough to drain the bombardment, admitting not restricted to only 3 days merely plenty to drain the bombardment in general.

02-24-2014,12:55 PM

Did yous pull the relays and fuses from the engine bay as well?

02-24-2014,01:04 PM

i did indeed effort the relays by the engine bay as well

02-24-2014,09:08 PM

Quote Originally Posted by th3rods View Post

I'll check the bombardment out - I did indeed have the battery good for about 2 weeks after I had purchased it and did not have the battery drained during that time. After the 2 weeks, with minimal driving in between, the bombardment died once more. This is my 3rd battery bandy equally a issue of this parasitic describe and so there is indeed something drawing it.

regardless of your math, 140mA is however as well high and enough to drain the bombardment, albeit not restricted to merely iii days but enough to drain the battery in full general.

Drain a battery in 2 weeks, but not in 3 days, so to me, this nevertheless points to your battery beingness no good. Do you have access to a second motorcar? Claw their battery upwardly instead of yours and run across if you still have the same problem.

FYI - I had battery issues too on my old mz3. Tertiary bombardment swap fixed the problem. Canadian tire was giving me shit batteries that other people had returned, so they would write "OK" on them after running their examination on them and give them back out. Total BS, and I won't e'er buy a battery from them over again merely because of how much of a pain in the ass that was. Left me stranded once, and almost stranded a 2d time.

02-25-2014,01:57 AM

Too dominion out the nuts...only quick bank check your charging/cranking system and voltage drops across the system

02-28-2014,11:08 AM

Thanks for the assist guys.

I will look into purchasing a new battery. If that doesn't fix it then dorsum to the drawing board.

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